Today I assembled the stem, breasthook and chine blocking and attached the resulting structure to frame #4 using a pair of #14 screws. My wife, Lynn, helped me check the height of the blocks under the breasthook. And for breasthook’s final placement I ended up using a plank to extend the center line of the frames over the stem to ensure it was located properly (ala the example in the ‘blue book’).
Then Lynn and I ripped the keel to 4in. on the table saw, finishing up the edge with a block plane. Lastly, I touched up the ends of the longitudanals (which I should have done at once clamped together!) using my bench plane to match up the angle on which the transom will hang.
I sprung the scrap from the keel around the frames at the chine and sheer to see what the lines of the boat were to be and they looked gorgeous!
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Mike and I finished getting the frames secured in place. While we were able to get the frames square at the longitudes we can see that we’ll have to ensure that the frames are square at the chine and the sheer as we spring in the logs and clamps,. respectively. The ‘blue book’ says we can use inter-frame blocking to keep the frames plumb. I’m thinking I’ll bock between frame 4 (locked solid on forward building form brace) and frame 3 (frame I put back together and not behaving).
Now it’s on the the keel. We’ve already got keel laminated with marine plywood. Now I’ll need to rip the thing to width and cut it to length.
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We screwed around with the frames a bit this evening. We wanted to ensure that they are level and plumb. We got frame 1 and 4 installed. 2 and 3 tomorrow night.
I suddenly remembered that I hadn’t secured the silicon bronze carriage bolts used to attach the keel to the transom knee and the stem! I ordered in a length of threaded rod, nuts, washers and lock washers from Jamestown Distributors. Only when I finished ordering did I discover the rod was on back order. Doh! Next time, order this when getting the keel material.
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